Trekking in Evia

Dimosaris Gorge
Karystos, Greece

Tanya and I hiked the Dimosaris Gorge today near the souther tip of Evia, Greek's second largest island. The day started with a long, winding drive up a gravel road, which is sandwiched between Mount Ohi and the start of the gorge. This hike is hailed as the most beautiful on the island, with a trail bordered by luscious forest that winds, next to a dazzling stream, for a ten kilometer stretch to the ocean.

Bells guided us down the correct path. The cacophony of sound belonged to countless sheep, each with a large bell so owners can keep track of their movement on the camouflaging hillsides. As we moved through the herd the sheep scattered, wide-eyed, their fear of us greater than that of being apart.

Tanya and I moved on quickly, having little desire to disturb the fauna of the animated forest. But disturb we did. Basking lizards leapt off the path before us, by day's end I spotted hundreds. Two eagles feasting on a large, eviscerated toad took flight as we traversed a bend in the trail, shrieking their dismay at having to abandon their kill.

Dragonflies flittered off rocks next to the cascading river, looking for new perches. A snake--at least three or four feet long--writhed off the path and under a stump, trying to burrow its head into a darker and safer alcove. And finally, goats gave us a pitiful cry (while we rested next to the stream) stuck on a high mountain ledge with a light rain making their footing even more treacherous. Alas, two exhausted humans had little help to offer such lofty hooves.

This week I have been re-uniting with nature. After London, Paris, Rome and Athens, the untouristy and largely undeveloped island of Evia is a most welcome respite. I find being surrounded by living ecological systems is when I truly feel connected to both the earth and myself. I heard someone say the forest is their church; that I can admire. Thorny scratches, irritating bug bites, grimy sweat and aching leg muscles--they all are part of a most rewarding trek. In fact, without the trial and tribulation, experiencing the forest would not be the same. Getting scratched by prickly flora and bitten by tiny winged fauna is only natural. I admire my battle scars, as I call them, and deem the day more than well spent. Weary and worn with euphoric exhaustion, I look forward to the next trail.